I'll Remember The Way It Tasted

When I travel, I eat. A lot.

From every new place, I take a few favorite foods and restaurants, and I miss them tirelessly after I’ve left. Cape Town will be no exception. In fact, it will be a shining star on my list of cravings, and you can bet that I’ll be remembering the way Cape Town tasted for years to come.

I’ll remember the sweet, syrupy taste of my morning coffee at The Power & The Glory. I’ll remember the taste of the laugen sticks that stole my heart with their crunchy, salty outsides and soft, doughy insides. I’ll remember the flaky deliciousness of the croissants, the perfect texture of the Bircher’s muesli, and the salty-sweet hot oats.

Malva pudding, a well-known South African indulgence.

When I think of Cape Town, I’ll remember ½ price sushi and dim sum at Beluga on Sundays. Sashimi salad, duck pot stickers, and a samurai roll, please. I’ll remember the way The Works tasted on Monday nights, when Rafiki’s served ½ price pizzas. I’ll remember the perfection of Hudson’s roasted banana milkshakes, and the disappointment I met when I discovered they would no longer be made. I’ll remember the cinnamon frozen yogurt at Myog, which made an appearance once every five weeks.

I’ll remember the seafood paella and fruit tarts at the Neighbourgoods Market on Saturdays, and I’ll remember the chilli poppers, strawberry balsamic chocolate truffles, and artisan lollies at the City Bowl Market on Thursdays. I’ll remember the noodle dishes I took comfort in at Simply Asia, Sawaddee, and Yindee’s. I’ll remember the bite of peri-peri on Nando’s chicken, mielie (corn) and potato wedges.

Milk tart, or melk tert, is an Afrikaans treat.

When I eat at McDonald’s, I’ll remember the fiery spice of the Grand Chicken Spicy sandwich that doesn’t exist in the USA. I’ll remember the late-night taste of boerewors rolls with grilled onions and sweet chilli sauce on Long Street. I’ll remember the crisp, sweet taste of Savanna and Hunter’s dry ciders. I'll remember the blueberry bubble tea and chilli poppers I found at the Waterfront food market.

I’ll remember chicken pies from Woolworths, mince samoosas from the tuck shop by the refugee centre, cappuccino muffins from the sandwich shop on campus. I’ll remember Caribbean onion and balsamic chips, chakalaka, onion jam, and springbok. I’ll remember the salty taste of biltong, the sticky sweet taste of koeksisters, and the custard-like taste of milk tart. I'll remember the gooey deliciousness of malva pudding with Amarula topping. I'll remember rooibos tea and Jacob's instant coffee. And I’ll remember the taste of chips (fries) served with just about everything.

Samoosas, also known as samosas, are savory pastries.

If our paths cross for any significant amount of time in the future, you’ll hear me dream of all of these things. Similar tastes will kick off nostalgia, and I’ll miss Cape Town again. Just like my taste buds occasionally miss Coldwater, MI and Nashville, TN and Louisville, KY and Charlotte, NC and Lincoln, NE. 

And just like my taste buds often miss Bowling Green, KY.

Say What? Languages In My Classroom

I have a confession to make: I’ve never been too interested in languages beyond English. Despite compulsory studies in Spanish (two years in high school) and American Sign Language (two semesters in college), I’ve remained rather isolated in my fascination by English, around which my professional and personal life has been woven.

Living in a country with eleven national languages is enough to pique one’s interest. In South Africa, English is the shared language, but many (if not most) people speak another language or more. While one who speaks only English can navigate Cape Town without any lingual challenges, it is not uncommon to hear a handful of languages spoken on the sidewalks. English, isiXhosa, Afrikaans, isiZulu…

Volunteering at Scalabrini Refugee Centre has given me a widened scope of language in Africa. The variety of languages spoken in the hallways is incredible. The refugees are constantly helping each other translate words and phrases from one language to another. I often have to turn to another student and ask, "Can you help me understand her?"

Most of my students’ lingual resumes overlap at French (and, increasingly, English), but that’s just the tip of the iceberg. At the end of class on Wednesday, I conducted a survey per a request by the English School intern: How many students in your class speak each of the following languages? How many languages does each student speak?

Thanks to Wikipedia, here's a map of official
languages in Africa. South Africa boasts ELEVEN.
Keep in mind that these are only the official ones.

Of the 21 students who were present that day, five speak one language other than English, four speak two languages other than English, six speak three languages other than English, and six speak four or more languages other than English.

Yes, that’s right. SIX of my students speak four or more languages. One student speaks six! And that’s not counting the rather advanced English they’re perfecting now. I was blown away.

Languages spoken by my Pre-Intermediate II class and how many students speak each:

• French – 16 (31 francophone countries in Africa)
• Lingala – 10 (northwestern DRC, Republic of the Congo, Angola, CAR)
• Swahili – 5 (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Mozambique, DRC)
• Kikongo – 5 (DRC, Republic of the Congo, Angola)
• Tshiluba – 5 (DRC)
• Somali – 4 (Somalia, Ethiopia)
• Arabic – 2 (North Africa)
• Kinyarwanda – 2 (Rwanda, Uganda)
• Kirundi – 2 (Burundi, Tanzania, DRC-Kinshasa, Uganda)

I was absolutely floored, and the students laughed at my reactions. To be the teacher in a language classroom and speak only one language, as opposed to the nine languages my class collectively speaks? Humbling, to say the least. Indescribable, even. 

When I stepped foot into my first class at Scalabrini, I knew very little about African cultures. I'm certainly no expect today, but I have learned so much from my students, which leaves me increasingly curious about their lives. At the end of my experience, it will be my students that I will miss most. They have undoubtedly changed my life by teaching me just as much as I have had the privilege of teaching them. 

I'll Remember The Way It Felt

I’ve put this one off because making sense of how this experience feels is a daunting task. 

It’s easy to tell you that when I remember Cape Town, I’ll remember the intense heat of the summers and the bitter cold of the winters. I’ll remember the absence of central heat and air conditioning. I’ll remember the sideways rain that pelted onto my skin like bullets. I’ll remember the refuge I found in my electric blanket on the coldest nights. I’ll remember the rays of the sunshine on my face when winter took a break for a few days. I'll remember the icy water of the ocean.

A stunning sunset in Strand

I’ll remember my uncomfortable mattress on the floor that I called my bed. I’ll remember the unfinished surfaces of our home – paint that absorbed moisture and wood that warped in water. I'll remember how the stairs shook when one climbed up or down. I’ll remember the click-click-click-click of the dial on our gas stove as it struggled to spark. I’ll remember the way my muscles burned while I climbed Eaton Road.

When I remember Cape Town, I’ll remember how it felt the first time I successfully gave a tourist directions. I’ll remember the surprise of unconsciously uttering South African vernacular. I’ll remember how proud I felt to show off my temporary home to visitors from My Old Kentucky Home.

Family photo on our game drive day trip

But how do I capture how it feels to walk into a coffee shop and be greeted by a freshly pulled Americano (for the American, the barista will say)? And how do I explain what it feels like to inhale the crisp, chilly morning air at the bottom of Table Mountain? How do I tell how it feels to run into people you know on the opposite side of the world from where you spent your first 23 years?

And how do I explain how it feels to fumble through conversations in English with refugees from across Africa? Or how it feels to celebrate their perfectly constructed compound sentence written in the present perfect verb tense? Or how it feels to explain to your students that you’ll leave soon, and that you’re not sure when you’ll be back? Or how it feels to hear someone yelling your name on Long Street, turn around, and find your student grinning ear to ear.

A photo from one of my classes last term.

When I remember Cape Town, I’ll remember all of those feelings. I’ll remember how insignificant I felt at the top of Table Mountain, at the tip of Cape Point, and at the shore of the ocean. I’ll remember how wide the world felt, how far away home seemed, and how encountering the smallest cultural difference can feel like walking into a wall. I’ll remember how it felt to be included, and how it felt to be excluded. I’ll remember how it felt to be different, and I’ll remember how it felt to be the same.

I’ll remember how it felt to arrive, and I’m sure I’ll remember how it felt to leave. For now, though, I’m still wrapping my mind around how it feels to miss people and places I haven’t even left yet.

When I think about Cape Town, I’ll remember the way it felt.

10 Weeks & 12,259.7 Miles From Home

10 weeks.

That’s what separates me from home.  

Well, that and 12,179 air miles. And 80.7 road miles. But who’s counting?

It’s official, folks. I’m the proud owner of a plane ticket that will take me from Cape Town, South Africa to Nashville, Tennessee by way of Johannesburg, Doha, and Chicago.

CPT - JNB - DOH - ORD - BNA

That’s right. Mark your calendars. Come October 22, I’ll be back in the land of southern hospitality, Starbucks, and Zaxby’s. And by no coincidence is that just long enough for me to recover from jet lag before reuniting with my favorite people in my favorite place: WKU Homecoming.

Ten weeks seems like a long time. Until you realize that’s only ten more sushi Sundays at Beluga. And ten more half-price pizzas at Rafiki’s. And then you realize you won’t even make it to all of them because you’ll be traveling in between. Holy moly.

It isn’t until you start thinking about tying loose ends that you realize just how deep your roots are. Leaving means terminating my gym membership. And switching the phone and Internet bills to another housemate’s name. And sorting financials with your university. And buying take-away souvenirs from that time you lived in Cape Town. And sending your last postcards. And eating your new favorite foods. And writing thank you notes. And abandoning your phone number. And closing your bank account. And packing your life back into its familiar spot in suitcases. And saying goodbye.

There’s still plenty of time, I tell myself. And there is. But there isn’t. There are many hours in a day, and there are many days in ten weeks, and that zoomed-in perspective makes time feel slow. But there are also many weeks in a year, and ten weeks quickly becomes October 22.

There are not a lot of squares between now and then.

When Ryan Adams sneaks through my speakers with my favorite portion of his lyrics – I miss Kentucky, and I miss my family / All the sweetest winds, they blow across the South – I can’t help but wish time would speed up. 

When the sun is beckoning Cape Town to life and Table Mountain seems to be glowing, though, I can’t help but wish time would slow down.

Here’s to ten weeks of looking forward to a familiar future in my humble hometown and to ten weeks of savoring the present before it becomes the past.

I'm looking at you, October 22.

Smooth Criminals

So, my iPhone was stolen.

Around here, that's usually the end of the story. 

In this case, though, it's the beginning. Thankfully.

One of the first things one learns about Cape Town, unfortunately, is the outstanding crime rate. You quickly train yourself to be incredibly aware of your surroundings. You avoid carrying your laptop with you unless you absolutely need to. You carry a cross-body purse that fastens, if you have one, because they’re the hardest to take or take from. You learn when it’s okay to have your headphones in (leading directly to a valuable item in your pocket) and when it’s not.

Long Street, almost anyone would tell you, is an area that calls for heightened awareness and vigilance. Even during the day, pick pocketing and mugging happens often. One of my roommates has had one camera and one phone stolen very close to the same area. Other roommates have been mugged in similar situations. When you’re on Long Street at night, and when you know how real the threat is, you multiply that vigilance by at least four.

On this particular night, I hadn’t planned on carrying an apartment-warming get-together into the night, so I wasn’t as prepared as I usually would be. I had everything in my zipped-up pockets of the jacket I was wearing. On this night, I did all I could to be as “smart” as possible: I danced – like a fool – with my hands in my pockets, I avoided pulling my phone out when I was in crowded group of people, and I checked often to make sure I had everything.

When we were leaving for home, we paused on Long Street. We were distracted by a friend, and, therefore, became easy targets. Here’s what I remember about the subsequent events:

“Guys, we need to make a move. You’re attracting attention.”
“Everyone, check your pockets NOW.”

“MY PHONE!”

One of our South African friends, a guy named Wanda, had been scoping out the situation from the start. He knew we’d acquired bulls-eye targets, and it turned out that his signals were warranted. As soon as I said my phone was missing, he was on a mission toward a guy who was walking across the middle of the street. After an inaudible exchange, Wanda returned to our huddle. Wagging my iPhone in his hand, shaking his head with a laugh. In South Africa, there’s an expression for that feeling: “Shame.”

Cape Town criminals are smart. Or, if you will, smooth. Afterward, Wanda told us that the pick pocketer will usually hand off the stolen goods to another person, who will calmly walk away from the scene. That’s how he knew to confront the guy crossing the street.

In other cases, people will approach you by complimenting your shoes. They’ll align your foot with their foot to “see if they’d fit,” all the while sliding their hand into your pocket. Another time, I was walking with my hands in my pockets, when a guy on the street put both hands around my arm and slid them down the length of my arm while I shook him loose. If I’d had anything in my hand, it would have become his.

I’ve been extremely fortunate so far. I’ve hardly ever felt in danger, and I’ve only had a couple of run-ins with crime here. I did surrender a camera to Cape Town, but that was by my own fault. Apparently, if you leave a camera on a bathroom sink in a public place, it disappears quickly. Who would’ve thought? And, oh, how could I forget? There was that time someone was spending my money in another country while I taught refugees how to speak English. 

The city’s reputation for high crime rates and danger are real, but certainly not restrictive of one’s enjoyment of Cape Town. Despite pick-pocketing, clever tricks, and bank account fraud, though, this amazing city’s “smooth criminals” haven’t dulled my brilliant experience here. Especially with the help of good friends who can swiftly retrieve your stolen possessions!

I'll Remember The Way It Smelled

Whew! A busy few weeks it has been. Between the final assignment for another course module (6-8,000 words on Educational Reform in South Africa), starting the second term of English classes at the Scalabrini English School, and a wonderful visit from my family, my days have quickly filled up and extracted every bit of energy from my soul. That being said, a “Five Senses Friday” post is long overdue, and I’m here to deliver. Today, I’m reflecting on the smells of my experience in Cape Town.

When I remember Cape Town, I’ll remember the way it smelled.

I’ll remember the damp smell of rain that crept inside my windows and trapped itself in my bedroom. I’ll remember the cheerful, floral smell of the laundry detergent I used – “summer sensations” it was called. I’ll remember the smell of the shampoo and conditioner that wafted up the staircase when someone was taking a shower downstairs.

I’ll remember the smell of the ocean on the coast. I’ll remember the smell of the winds that gusted away any pollution, restoring the city’s fresh scent. I’ll remember how the after-the-rain smell of a coastal city differed from my landlocked home in Kentucky. And I’ll remember the familiar smells of my visitors upon our first hugs in a different country: the lotion my sister had used for years and the familiar smell of Adam’s house that lingered in his clothing.

"Nothing is more memorable than a smell. One scent can be unexpected, momentary and fleeting, yet conjure up a childhood summer beside a lake in the mountains; another, a moonlit beach; a third, a family dinner of pot roast and sweet potatoes during a myrtle-mad August in a Midwestern town. Smells detonate softly in our memory like poignant land mines hidden under the weedy mass of years. Hit a tripwire of smell and memories explode all at once. A complex vision leaps out of the undergrowth." - Diane Ackerman

The smell of wine will permeate my memories. From early afternoon through the evening, people sip the pride of their wineland-rich area, and the smell swirls around them. The smell of freshly pulled espresso will punctuate my memories. From the start of each day at The Power & The Glory to the end of dinner throughout the city, cafes and restaurants emit the sweet, buttery smell I have fallen in love with throughout the years. All day. Every day. Everywhere. 

I’ll remember the variety of smells I encountered on my walk from the Jammie Shuttle stop to our house after class (at about 7 PM, which is peak dinner time). I'll remember the tangy smell of Thai food as I pass Sawaddee, the rich smell of coffee as I pass Vida e Caffe, the enticing smell of bread as I pass Knead, the enticing smell of burgers on the grill at Hudson’s, and the freshly cooked fish smell of Ocean Basket. I’ll remember the smell of our house and of the gas stove being lit.

When I think about Cape Town, I’ll remember the smell of the cinnamon and cloves in my oats and the swirling smells of the various market vendors at Old Biscuit Mill, Hout Bay, and Hope Street. I’ll remember the warm and earthy smell of rooibos tea steeping in a cup of hot water. I’ll remember the smell of curries and samoosas and savory pies.

I’ll remember the smells of my time in Cape Town. 

Video: http://vimeo.com/34944711#

I'll Remember The Way It Looked

It's "Five Sense Friday" time, and this week's perspective on life in Cape Town is sight. If you're following my journey from afar via Facebook or Instagram, you've seen a good chunk of my favorite sites in Cape Town. If not, I've included my favorite photos in miniature collages below. 

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
its views of the ocean and its beaches.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
the stunning University of Cape Town campus.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
the corners of the city that became my home.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
the faces of the people with whom I shared my experience.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
how beautiful it was.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
the smiles of my students at Scalabrini refugee centre.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember
the vibrant sights of our neighborhood.

When I remember Cape Town, I'll remember the ocean outstretched as far as I can see. I'll remember finding my house through binoculars at the top of Table Mountain. I'll remember the view of the street from my room, the view of the mountain from our terrace, and the view of our neighborhood from my favorite coffee shop. I'll remember watching taxis roll down Long Street. I'll remember the relaxed, bohemian style. I'll remember watching rain blow sideways. I'll remember the rainbow arching into Table Mountain when the rain turned to sun again.

I'll remember the dutch architecture, and I'll remember what seemed like millions of penguins at Boulder Beach. I'll remember the neon yellow bibs the car guards wore. I'll remember the Volkswagen logo that branded so many cars. I'll remember the familiar faces of Kloof Street. I'll remember the advertising. I'll remember the red city sightseeing buses, the blue Jammie Shuttle buses, and the MyCity buses. I'll remember Lion's Head, Signal Hill, and Table Mountain, all visible from our front door.

I'll remember the way it looked in real life, because pictures just don't do it justice.