Friday, May 17, 2013

Coffee Culture in Cape Town


If my life were condensed into a biography, my love affair with coffee would deserve its own chapter. Since I can remember, I've loved adored coffee. Even as a young girl, I'd join my parents for a cup of Folger's at the kitchen table. No sugar, please. No milk, thanks. Just like my parents drink it. 

My tastebuds have moved beyond Folger's, though. A few years behind the bar at Starbucks primed my palette for a love of sweet espresso and dark roasted coffee. College's busy agenda transformed my affinity for coffee into an attachment, an addiction. My corner at Starbucks became my sanctuary, and that familiar white ceramic mug held a "sippable" comfort blanket. 


Countries serving Starbucks...
note the sparse supply in Africa.
When I packed up my suitcases and moved to the other side of the world, I had an admittedly ridiculous amount of anxiety about coffee in South Africa. Sure, Africa produces some of the very best coffee beans, but would Cape Town be able to serve my ritualistic relationship with coffee? I knew there was no Starbucks in South Africa, which was unsettling. Having been here for four months, though, I can laugh at my premature concerns. Yes, coffee culture is bit different here than in the United States, but it is most certainly thriving. 

Filter coffee, which is ubiquitous in the United States, is scarce in South Africa. For most people, you have two options: espresso-based drinks (yum) or instant coffee (yuck). If instant coffee is the only option, I usually opt for tea instead... and that's saying something. However, locals love instant coffee, so it must be a matter of what you grow up with, as most things are. 

Souper Sandwich at UCT - home to an
espresso machine, believe it or not!
Much like Europe, Cape Town boasts cafés in the most visible corners and in the most hidden nooks. Almost all restaurants are equipped with industrial espresso machines... even the sandwich shop that is housed by a tarp-like tent on campus. And while there's no Starbucks, there's a chain called Vida e Caffe that's pretty similar. Americanos, lattes, macchiatos, cappuccinos, and flat whites galore. 

Flat whites? Flat whites. I'm told this mysterious drink found its beginning in Australia. It's made with ristretto espresso and free poured milk that has been steamed to produce a velvety microfoam that is folded into the whole drink. It's similar to a latte, but with less milk to mask the espresso, and much more velvety in texture. Meet the flat white:




Here's a quick list of a few of my favorite coffee spots in Cape Town: 

  • The Power and The Glory
    You've heard me talk about it over and over. This one's literally five doors down the street from where I live, and I kick off most mornings with an americano served by a familiar face. We know everyone that works there in the mornings, and they know us. They don't even mind too much if I left my wallet behind - "Just pay double tomorrow."
  • Truth Coffee
    Early in our stay in Cape Town, a local showed us this gem. It took us quite a while to realize how close it is to us, though. In fact, it's just around the corner from Scalibrini, the refugee centre at which I teach English. The roast their own coffee, then they serve it. Their "no sugar required" mantra is endearing to me, and I'm particularly fond of their desire to "deliver upon the promise made by the aroma of freshly ground coffee."
  • Deluxe Coffeeworks
    Deluxe coffee is served all around town, including at The Power and The Glory, but there's one hidden nook that I fell in love with at first sight (Thanks, Marissa!). It hinds behind a no-frills taco (by day) and burger (by night) restaurant, which hides behind... a garage door. It takes a second glance to even notice this spot, making it even more of a hidden treasure within the plentiful coffee options in Cape Town. 

Needless to say, I get my fair share of really good coffee. In fact, I haven't even opened the 2 lbs. of seasonal Starbucks Casi Cielo I squeezed into my suitcase. The best part of the story is that I've only scratched the surface; there are many more baristas to meet and many more cafés to discover. And I'm looking forward to it! 

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