Friday, March 29, 2013

Manenberg and Missing My Momma


On March 20, I woke up with a heavy heart. I attempted to wish the feeling away with productivity and distraction, cleaning my room and checking Facebook incessantly. Most of these milestones come and go in my mind. After all, why would one want to dwell on the passing of another month without her mother?

The heaviness lingered, though. I couldn’t shake the overwhelming grief that six months had passed since my mom had passed away – only six months? – and that I was farther away from my family than I ever had been and probably ever will be. In those six months, everything had changed. Once fairly dependent on my mom’s advice, encouragement, and faith in me, I was now finding my way around life in a foreign country. On this day, I was feeling especially lonely, and I was missing my mom more than ever. 

A quick reminder of how far away from home I am

As I sat at my desk silently wondering what to make of my day, my phone rang. Mr. Saxby, one of my host counselors for my scholarship, would be heading to Manenberg to visit and learn about a potential Rotary project site, and he invited me to join him. I had no idea what I was getting into, but I welcomed a distraction. Plus, I always enjoy learning more about Cape Town with Mr. Saxby.

The drive provided enough time to learn a bit about the area we were visiting. Manenberg, a township that is home to approximately 70,000 people, was created by the apartheid government for low-income Coloured families. Though it carries a derogatory connotation in the United States, in South Africa, "Coloured" refers to an ethnic group of mixed race that makes up about 70% of the Cape Town population. 

The project site was a Catholic church known as Holy Family of Nazareth. Like many properties in and around Cape Town, the church's grounds were bordered by a concrete wall with razor wire at the top and an gate for cars' entry. We were let in and asked to pause in the parking lot for an introduction before entering the church. There, on the dusty and desolate lawn, a priest who used to live on the grounds shared his experiences and knowledge about the area.

"Look up at that window. Those are bullet holes."

He went on to explain that Manenberg is home to a tradition of severe crime and gangsterism. Its violence and street gangs are a part of everyday life. One might pass a gang headquarters on his or her way to church or school and think nothing unusual of it. 




The church we visited operates Holy Family Child and Youth Development Centre, which provides a safe place for children to play after school. It developed in 2010, when schools closed for a prolonged time while Cape Town hosted the World Cup. According to the priest, many of the children received their only meal and refuge from the violence of the township at school, meaning the break for the World Cup would leave the community in a dangerous spot. Additionally, most of the children wandered the streets with no supervision from their parents and caregivers, who were often tangled up in gang violence, drug use and alcohol abuse, or domestic violence and child abuse.

As he walked us inside, we passed an older woman sitting with a child in a wheelchair and a toddler. "What are you doing here today?" he asked. "They were shooting," she replied. 

Inside the church, the vibrance of childhood bloomed. One room held a group of children learning hip hop dance moves from a young man. In another room was a gathering of girls playing recorders as a young lady played piano. In yet another room, children were learning basic life skills such as cooking. In the playroom, innumerable small children wiggled around heaps of worn and beaten toys. In the kitchen, three women worked to prepare a basic sandwich meal for the children.

Razor wire in Manenberg
(http://www.unodc.org/images/newsletter/persp_no02/page006_01.jpg)

For just a few hours each day, children come and go as they please. Some of the children have been coming to the centre since its beginning, including the young man who gave us a tour of the facilities. They are each served one meal per day - a sandwich or soup, for example. Here, the children are able to play safely and out of the danger that walks the streets of the place they call home. Or, worse, in the buildings and rooms they call home.

While watching a young boy play with a typewriter that had seen better days, I remembered a typewriter that had been a source of my own childhood entertainment. Mine, though, had a ribbon of ink to be transferred to endless blank pages. His didn't even have all the keys. Nevertheless, interested onlookers huddled over him, as if a fantastic story was spilling onto the imaginary pages. 

Observing the happiness of the children while simultaneously imagining the things they have seen, heard, and endured was enough to move anyone on any given day. But to witness such durability of the human spirit on a day when I was feeling the weight of my own world was quite another experience.

Manenberg
(http://africasacountry.com/2011/09/15/tupac-in-africa/)

It took some time to process exactly what I was feeling that day. There was a collision of overwhelming sadness and encouraging hope. If these children could still smile, I most certainly could. Watching the children play in what could very well be the most loving and caring atmosphere they know shifted my focus from how frustrating and unfair it was to suddenly lose my mother to how unbelievably lucky I was to spend 24 years showered in love from my mother in a caring and comfortable home.

They don't know it, and they never will, but those joyous children changed my perspective for the better. That day, I decided not to heed the 20th of each month with a sense of mourning and loss that fills an entire day. Instead, I shifted my outlook to one of memorialization and remembering the blessing of an extraordinary mother. Of embodying my momma's spirit rather than just missing its presence. 

For the rest of the day, I felt blessed. The sun seemed to shine a bit brighter, the hospitality of my host counselors glowed. It was hard to believe, but on the day that marked six months without my momma, I  felt lucky. And that was an unexpected treasure.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Do Your Little Bit Of Good Where You Are

A quick 25-minute walk separates me from an entirely different human experience, and I make the journey at least twice a week. When I walk down Kloof Street, over to Orange Street, through the Company Gardens, down Plein Street, and over to Commercial Street, everything changes.

Along the way, I pass the Mount Nelson (a famous hotel known for its high tea), the South Africa Museum Planetarium, the Italian and French Consulates, the South African National Gallery and the schoolchildren playing in the Company Gardens, and the juxtaposition of businessmen and beggars in front of the Parliament of South Africa.

Each week, I make this trek to the Scalibrini Centre of Cape Town, where I teach and tutor refugees from other African countries. I teach a Beginners English class of 15-20 students (the roster, or "register" as they say here, keeps growing) on Fridays from 9 AM to 12 PM, and I've just begun tutoring a 16 year old unaccompanied refugee with dyslexia. The youngest student in my English class is 22 years old, and they range in age beyond that. Most of the refugees in my class (but not all) are from the Democratic Republic of the Congo (or DRC), Malawi, Central African Republic, the Congo, Rwanda, and Somalia.



Refugees and asylum seekers may take English courses at the Scalibrini Centre of Cape Town for R200, which equates to about $22. Four levels are offered - Beginner, Elementary, Pre-Intermediate, and Intermediate - and each level is divided into two courses, which last five months each. In addition to the English School, the Scalibrini Centre offers other welfare and development services thanks to a team of 26 employees and about 40 volunteers who are always in and out.

I knew I would enjoy volunteering at the refugee center, but I had entirely underestimated the impact being back in front of a classroom (of African refugees, no less) would have on me as an individual, as a professional, and as a temporary resident of South Africa.

For refugees, English is the language of opportunity - for communication, for employment, for understanding. My students seem to love our frustrating language, and they love learning how to talk about their lives and ask about others' lives. Their faces light up when I plug my own details into our lessons (my mother's name, my hometown, my favorite words, etc.), and I enjoy talking about the home I miss.

Perhaps the most striking contrast between teaching at Scalibrini and my own teaching experience in the past is that these students, unlike my beloved teenagers who practically run out the door at the sound of the bell, reluctantly pack their materials at the end of each lesson. Teaching students who intensely want to learn your material is refreshing and inspiring, especially when it reaffirms your love for your career choice.



At the end of one day's lesson, one student lingered to practice his conversation skills with me. With a few pauses for collecting the right combination of words, he said, "Teacher, nice to meet you. Thank you for teaching me English. I love English and speaking English. I want to learn so much English."

After doing my best to explain to him how much I loved teaching him English, I packed up my things and headed out the classroom door with a smile on my face. When I reached the bottom of the stairs, I found several of my students gathered there. Their newfound classroom camaraderie had apparently led to collaboration in French. "Teacher, do you like coffee?" one student said. "Do you want to come to coffee with us?" he continued, as the others stood by with smiles of their own.

My heart hasn't felt so full in the longest time. I was humbled by such a small gesture of gratitude and proud of their growing English language skills, even after only three class meetings. I had made a connection with people who come from far different backgrounds and experiences, and I am so grateful for the opportunity to do so.

Desmond Tutu, a South African social rights activist and opponent to apartheid, once said, "Do your little bit of good where you are; it's those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world." Teaching English at Scalabrini might not be changing the world, but it might be changing some of my students' worlds, and I am extremely thankful for this chance to do my little bit of good where I am.




Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Two Sides Of The Same Coin


“More than any other nation, South Africa articulates its dreams through sport,” read a recent TIME Magazine article by Alex Perry that went into circulation following Oscar Pistorius’ arrest for the murder of his girlfriend, Reeva Steenkamp. 

In South Africa, sport has a history of representing hope. With the end of apartheid in 1994, the country experienced extreme unrest. President Nelson Mandela adopted rugby, a traditionally Afrikaans sport, and the country’s home victory in the 1995 World Cup united a very divided nation. In 2010, the FIFA World Cup announced to the world that “Africa was no longer the hopeless continent but a waking point of capability and opportunity.” And in 2012, a man with no legs - yes, Oscar Pistorius - achieved victory in a sport he could have easily written off as out of reach: running. (Perry, 2013)

Nelson Mandela presents the
rugby World Cup to Francois Pienaar
(from the link above)
Invictus, a popular movie that tells of
Mandela's alliance with the
rugby captain to unite the country

During my (almost) two months in Cape Town, I’ve had the opportunity to experience vastly different sporting events: cricket at Newlands Cricket Ground and football (soccer) at Athlone Stadium.

Veeral, a friend I met as I was leaving a braai hosted by one of last year’s Ambassadorial Scholars, offered me the chance to attend the cricket match. He had an extra ticket for a box seat at the stadium, and being a cultural experience I knew nothing about, I jumped on the chance. Prior to leaving the house that morning, I couldn’t have even told you whether I was going to a cricket game or a cricket match.

It turned out to be a lot of fun. The stadium, which is in Newlands, holds 51,900 people, but there were nowhere near that many fans present. Newlands is an upmarket residential area in the Southern Suburbs area, and it has an American suburb feel. The stadium is right in the mix with quaint homes and car dealerships, almost as if it were dropped on top of an existing neighborhood.

Newlands Cricket Ground
(www.southafricatourismonline.com)
South Africa vs. Pakistan
(http://www.nbcnews.com/id/33097505/?q=Pakistan)
I’m still not quite sure of the logistics of the game, but I know more now than I used to know! For example, cricket matches are played on a field, at the center of which there is a pitch. Because test matches last several days, fans tend to leisurely come and go rather than try to catch every single play of the event. South Africa defeated Pakistan in this test match by four wickets.

Matt and Eric, two guy friends we spend quite a lot of time with, get credit for our football (soccer) experience at Athlone Stadium. They work at Chris Campbell Memorial Field in Khayelitsha, a local township, and are avid fans of the sport. With Lindsey already in tow, they picked me up after class on Wednesday and we headed to Athlone Stadium on The Cape Flats, an area with which Newlands has more contrast than comparison. Historically, The Cape Flats have been home to many who were forced out of central urban areas by race-based legislation during apartheid into government housing and informal settlements.

Chippa vs. Kaizer at Athlone Stadium

We watched Chippa United (of Cape Town) play the Kaizer Chiefs (of Johannesburg), which was especially thrilling because of the matchup’s dually South African roots. The stadium holds 30,000 people, and it was quite filled with enthusiastic fans, many with vuvuzelas in tow. Considered "The People's Game" in South Africa, it is football (soccer) that inspires loud cheers from all corners of the city, including a pub just up the street from our house.  Watching the fans proved to be more entertaining than the game itself, as I was amazed by the passion and fervor each person had for his or her team. It seemed that every person was decked in team colors and dancing or singing in support of their pick.

Culture reveals itself in everyday customs and values, and attending these events introduced me to different sides of the multi-faceted culture of Cape Town. In a way, the contrasting cricket and football events were like seeing two sides of the same coin; both experiences represented South Africa's love for sport, but from two incredibly different perspectives. Now I'm looking forward to adding rugby, the third of the country's three most popular sports, to the list!




Saturday, March 2, 2013

Every Creature Is Within Us



Dr. Ian McCallum closed his presentation with this poignant poem - his poem - Thursday night at the Rotary Club of Signal Hill. My scholarship host counselors, Mr. Mike and Mrs. Eve Saxby, encouraged me to attend this particular meeting because of the guest speaker, as they knew he would deliver a riveting presentation. My goodness, were they right.

McCallum has built quite the living legacy, as is evidenced by his curriculum vitae. Once a rugby Springbok and co-captain, McCallum is a medical doctor, analytical psychologist, psychiatrist, published author and poet, and director of the Wild Leaders leadership development project of the Wilderness Foundation. His Thursday night presentation, which spotlighted his trek across southern Africa, included stunning photography, fantastic storytelling, and inspiring philosophies. Within the first five minutes of the presentation, I was thankful my path had crossed his.

Ian McCallum
http://tracksofgiants.org/key-people-partners

Though it seems McCallum could have filled days with his stories, experiences, and ponderings, our hour of his time was focused on an expedition he concluded not long ago: Tracks of Giants. The project, which aimed to "raise awareness of conservation, human community and leadership issues relevant to southern Africa" involved a five-month west to east journey following ancient African elephant tracks. According to the Track of Giants website, "the journey (aimed) to rekindle the rapidly declining indigenous knowledge base of the human-animal interface, and indigenous solutions to conservation challenges and issues."

Map of the Tracks of Giants route
http://tracksofgiants.org/in-the-tracks-of-giants 

You cannot understand the magnitude of McCallum's journey without hearing him tell his own story. Though I have no expertise in conservation and little experience wrestling with environmentalism, I was moved by McCallum's passion for the fibers of our Earth: humans, animals, elements, ideas. Listen to his recitation of another poem he wrote about being in the presence of the elephants: "In the Tracks of Giants"

One of the most stunning things about Africa (at least the small corner of it that I have experienced so far) is its kinship with raw nature. Having grown up in the United States, I have always remained as isolated and separated from nature as I have wished to be. Sure, a quick escape to our perch on the lake or Mammoth Cave National Park quickly reacquainted me with the elements of nature, but here there is more integration than isolation.

McCallum's presentation moved me. No, I can't say that it will keep me from cursing the lingering dust or swirling winds or pesky insects or powerful animals of South Africa, but it will cause me to hesitate before doing so. I was inspired by the aesthetic beauty McCallum shared and the stories of humanity he told. And I do wish everyone had the chance to be surrounded by forces of nature as great as sunrises over the mountains and sunsets over the ocean. Or visionaries like McCallum.



Photos from http://tracksofgiants.org/

"We have to stop speaking about the Earth being in need of healing. The Earth doesn't need healing. We do. It is our task to rediscover ourselves in Nature. It is an individual choice. We either continue to believe that someone or something else will rescue us, show us the easy way, or even take the hard path on our behalf, or we choose the opposite -- we take it upon ourselves. We take the hard path, each one of us in our own way and we do it gladly. And where does that path begin? It begins exactly where we are right now, when we look up at the world as a mirror, when we discover that our sense of freedom and authenticity is linked to the well being and authenticity of others - including the animals, trees and the land."
 Ian McCallum / Source: http://ian-mccallum.co.za/

Want to know more about Tracks of Giants? Check out these links: